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  • #11179
    Michael
    Participant

    some wooden piano26s with downsanded paint

    this link will not stay, bacause it is just from a selling platform. but great pictures to see the wooden parts.

    #11163
    Michael
    Participant

    when i hear this , i definatly know: it is not the type of melodica that makes it sound good…
    it is the one who plays it!

    i am bad in playing, need much more practice…

    great done.

    #11162
    Michael
    Participant

    found one actually on ebay usa. fair price around 66€, but shipping is too much.
    the last months i have only seen 3 or 4, mostly over 100€
    i got my black one accidently for 25€.
    mr. maurer sellls well repaired ones on his side with waranty for much less than 900!
    regards

    #11137
    Michael
    Participant

    hi alan,
    perhaps this is the right place to continue our conversion from the soprano cleaningthread some days ago.
    now i got also a woodenbody soprano and found this info on the first side of this thread:

    In the first half of the production, the soundboard was made of pearwood, but they then switched to injection molded parts because of the persistent problems with swelling of the wood.

    (the first half year of production is the right translation)

    so the wooden ones should be the real first melodicas from hohner.

    soprano alto wood

    the left soprano with yellowish plasticbody
    in the middle and right soprano and alto with woodbody and whiter tint.
    you can identify them with the third screw at the end.

    the soprano had a broken key i just fixed quick and dirty to get her airtight. she seems to had fallen on the edge.

    i can not compare the sound at the moment, because i am a little ill, but will ask my girlfriend to test them.

    #11093
    Michael
    Participant

    oh, i posted the mobile link. delete the “m” bevore ebay and you get the full site.

    sorry Alan, i am not sure if the sound is different, because i own only one piece of each.
    so i can only try to play the same tones on alto and soparano: when i play the same tone on the soprano and the alto there is definatly a difference, but i am not sure if the difference come from wood against plastic.

    but in my opinion there must be a difference! plastic and woodresonance can not be the same.

    perhaps this is not the right place, but here a detail of the woodbody piano26:
    piano26wood

    #11090
    Michael
    Participant

    Hey Alan,
    I have seen more of them.
    The third screw at the end of the top should be the sign.
    My wooden Piano 26 is the one with 5 screws on the back, but i also got a Piano 27 with 5 screws and plastic body. I didn’t find out a special sign to identify the wooden ones without macro picture from the side.
    Have a Look at the german eBay-Kleinanzeigen, mostly privat seller :
    Only german seller
    Have a great week

    #11088
    Michael
    Participant

    I have one piano26 with wooden body and also an alto.

    See picture:
    Red alto with wooden body and in the back a Soprano with plastic body.

    If opened, i can See the naked wood on some edges without paint.

    Hohner alto with wooden body

    Regards
    Michael

    #11086
    Michael
    Participant

    be aware, the metal covered hohners could lose paint with sharp cleaning. perhaps bebause of the vinegear?
    martin had a metal piano 26 that lost the paint:
    the cleaningthread

    also the first sopranos and altos had a wooden body, but i think yours is made out of plastic so a bath is generally no problem, just use a lighter cleanser.

    i had good experiances with denture cleanser tabs against odor in melodicas.

    #11083
    Michael
    Participant

    this black clavietta with pickup has the bigger black back made out of aluminium, but got the keys hold by springs and not like the later ones with clamps.

    i found out the hard way that the srews which hold the washers have different sizes.
    some are very flat, some little bigger and so on.
    i mixed all together when replacing the washers and after reassambling all the keys had different heights.
    so i had a new puzzle and wasted some time by sorting that out.

    how to gap the “upside down reeds”?
    i found two tones reacting a little less responsive, but i am not sure how to lower the gap by a little.
    do i have to take the reed out or is it possible to gap it from the airchannel through the valve?

    black clavietta with springs
    old washers
    selfmade silicon washers

    #11082
    Michael
    Participant

    So, my model of M36 is not made in 1982.It should be the first model made around the early 70`s.
    The number stamped on the airchamber seem to be the running number of produktion?

    Detailpictures (also to see if more links in one post are working again):
    m 36
    m 36 back
    m 36 side
    m 36 airchamber left
    m 36 airchember right

    #11069
    Michael
    Participant

    inside
    from the inside

    somebody got other detailed pictures of a clavietta with pickup?

    #11065
    Michael
    Participant

    pickup

    #11064
    Michael
    Participant

    tryed several times now to post a picture in this thread, but none of the posts were saved.

    wanted to say that that my pickup is working great with our tascam 8-track recorder.
    try to post the pic in the next post.

    #11055
    Michael
    Participant

    another post is lost. a problem with inserting links?

    next try with just one link:
    pictures of my clavietta and optimizing

    #11053
    Michael
    Participant

    so i would like to show what i posted and what dissapeared:

    ——————————————————————————
    Michael replied to the topic Clavietta in the forum Vintage Melodicas
    21 hours, 48 minutes ago

    Without pressing any key my clavietta now holds the air very good. No leaks anymore.
    Cutted siliconwashers by my self and spend some time by adjusting; renewed the gasket wir armaflex 3mm (yes, ist a little too thick, but working).
    My last post here (will post the link again seperatly)

    It was hard to find the leaks, because of bad sealing on the other side of the valves.
    When pressing a key, some air will escape under the key, where the valve-base is located.
    There sits the bumper, which is stopping the key.
    Somebody sorted this out and sealed this valveshafts?
    My clavietta pictures with details: here

    By the way many thanks. This side is a great ressource and big help.
    I like the claviettasound very much.
    Greetings
    michael

    ————————————————————————–
    Melodica-Me replied
    14 hours, 9 minutes ago
    Michael, there will always be a little leakage in the Clavietta as the air escapes form the post on the key it’s self. if your keys are clanking a little, the grey felts under the key should be replaced. The felts are also another source to seal the air leaking from the post. when replacing do not cut a hole for the post to go through, use a needle to start the hole and work the key over and over, the hole will widen its self. at first the key will stick slightly just keep working the key back and fourth until it springs shut or key up. You can purchase a sticky back felt from craft stores and cut therm the same way you cut your silicon washers. New felts will quiet your keys down and feel new again.
    Melodica-Me

    ——————————————————————–
    Michael replied
    13 hours, 20 minutes ago
    thank you very much.
    this is exactly what i was looking for.
    for now i will stay with the aktual, because it is 95% better than bevore and disabling the keys is perhaps not worth the result.
    the beauty is playable now and this is what we were looking for.

    edit:
    it seems that i did something wrong in the thread.the replys are not visible in the thread. will contact @banarzi
    ——————————————–
    pictures and link to my startingpost in the other thread will come in seperate post.

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