[Alan Brinton]

I have just acquired a Professional that appears to be in much better condition than I anticipated. Although it does not play at all, this seems to be due to a massive leak that I’m hoping can be repaired without too much trouble. However, I’d like some feedback before I go any further. So here it is:

[Alan Brinton]

Okay, that last photo shows what may be the problem, which is an irregularity in the black semi-soft strip shown in full in the next photo:

All the key mechanisms seem to be working well as I examine them with the Melodica taken apart to the stage you see in these photos, except that some of the keys toward the high end are a bit less springy. The key pads are not visible without further disassembly. On the other hand, except for the irregularity on the black strip, I don’t see any deterioration of “soft” materials. There is a bit of build-up (similar to what you see on battery posts) on the little metal interior screw mounts at the ends of the reed panel. The individual reed plates are firmly mounted in wax that looks good.

[Bruno Travi]

Hello Alan,

There are three versions of Professional 36 manufacture:

The first has the drained system throughs that button (as the MM Solist)
The second is that you have, has the drained system throughs screw cap (until the mid 1963)
Both version share the following characteristics; edge of the mouthpiece hole made ​​of cork, mouthpiece like yours and part of the structure of the keys made ​​of wood.

The third version has the edge of the mouthpiece hole made ​​in plastic and the structure of the keys made ​​entirely in plastic, making it lighter than two previous versions. It also incorporates the trumpet mouthpiece (such as Piano 36 ) but with narrowest internal diameter. After this appeared the Piano 36

The third is my favorite !!

[Alan Brinton]

Thanks for that information, Bruno. I’m especially interested because I have since acquired a second Professional 36, in better condition, and of the third type. It has the trumpet mouthpiece, the plastic mouthpiece receptacle, and a hexagonal brass screw cap. Although the sound is lovely, I am not playing it much because of the amount of wind it requires, even though it is relatively air tight for this type of vintage Hohner.

I have still not followed through on the other one, despite good intentions.

[Robert Terry]

Great pictures.
I stopped bidding on one when the price went to $400 USD.
I just wanted to peek at it to compare with the Clavietta etc etc and conjure up my own design.

thx to all for this site.
not that active on SOTW
i’ll be bach. 😉
Wind & Chords

[Melodica-Me]

Alan, one of the pro 36 melodicas that I have has a lot of wood decade near the pads where the wood is actually soft. I got it for almost nothing so it’s getting shelved for reeds. The leaks are not terribly bad enough so I won’t play it. It definately needs a lot of attention. Maybe once I get done with what I am working on now, I can then maybe dedicate a little time to it. I may remove the reeds and keys then tear it apart completely just to study the design if it seams not worth saving.
Melodica-Me

[Toby_Jam]

@bruno Travi and @melodica-me, you guys seem to know much about the pro36. I have bought one and was able to restore a broken reed together with an accordion builder (Hohner doesn’t supply the single reeds anymore) but I have not been able to get the thing airtight, it requires a lot of breath to play. I removed the old black foam and the leather strip around the reeds chamber (if that’s what it’s called) and tried some different kinds of tape. I even bought a new set of metal and wood screws to ensure a good pressure of the lid onto the instrument. But I have not succeeded in getting it as airtight as I want it to be. Do you have any advice in how to achieve it? Any other leaks to look out for except for around the reeds chamber (basically the one half of the instrument), consisting of the two straight lines and the two shorter rounded lines at the Short edges?
I live in Germany, the guys at the Hohner c-shop suggested trying with silicone fluid which hardens upon contact with air, creating a silicone sausage around the edges where the foam was. Any experience on this? Thanks

[Melodica-Me]

Hello Toby, Unfortunately the Professional 36 is known for leaks to occur after opening the Melodica due to the age. The actual best solution is to take it completely apart and start over. I was able to remove the leaks. It takes time and patience, but I was able to Identify the leaks in a simple way. I spoke of this method here several years ago. I mix up a soapy water mixture and I start by remove the cover and with a brush place the cover back on with no screws press the cover as tight as you can and then blow in the melodica without pressing a key remove the cover quickly and see if you can see any small bubble mark with a white grease pencil and repeat until you identify all the leaks. Once this is done you can choose a method to cover the leaks with silicone or latex caulk or even better bees wax. for the cover basket you can replace this easily. I usually order here in the US with Macmaster Carr supply
see https://www.mcmaster.com/products/gasket-tape/oil-resistant-compressible-buna-n-gasket-material-6/
If you have a leak in the reed block the best is to replace the wax or chip away the old brittle wax and then replace. I prefer to remove all and re-wax. The last and most complicate is if you have a leak in the actual wood air chamber that is caused by wood decay. In this case I normally remove everything let the body dry completely then check for decay and remove soft wood and replace with bondo, smooth and sand then seal with a good water sealer, let completely dry. I have done this and the melodica worked as new BUT it was a lot of work so be prepared and take many pictures so you can reinstall the parts. one last thing the professional 36 comes up every so often on eBay if cheap buy for parts. I have several that I used to replace reeds, keys. I hope this helps. Sorry for the delay in response on your post.
Melodica-Me

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